The original DB28 Kind of Blue, released in 2016 with its all-burnt blue titanium case and dial, marked a milestone for De Bethune, one of our favorite high-end independent luxury watch brands. It quickly became one of the brand's most recognizable models, and at the 2025 Geneva Watch Fair, the eighth (and smallest) Kind of Blue watch was released. Additionally, De Bethune will release two smaller Starry Varius models in 2025, each with a burnt blue titanium dial; a monopusher chronograph; and a new, scaled-down time-only model in a yellowed titanium case. Let's take a look at each of these watches.
De Bethune has been a relentless force in the avant-garde ultra-luxury watch market since its debut in 2002, and its momentum has only grown in recent years. The 2025 releases are perfectly aligned with our (high) expectations for the brand, and I believe this year can be considered a year of streamlining.
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DB28xs Yellow Tones
The DB28 watch is widely considered a De Bethune signature, renowned for its spring-loaded skeletonized lugs, exposed shield-shaped barrel bridge, and exquisite craftsmanship. Winning the prestigious Aiguille d'Or at the Geneva Grand Prix d'Horlogerie in 2011, the DB28 has since spawned numerous versions, including tourbillons and smaller editions like the DB28xs.
Featuring a yellowed grade 5 titanium case and a bridge featuring a Star Trek-like logo dominating the dial, it is essentially a smaller version of the DB28 Yellow Tones that debuted five years ago. "XS" actually stands for "extra small," and while the 38.7mm diameter isn't exactly small, keep in mind that De Bethune watches have traditionally skewed large—they only began producing models under 40mm in size in 2023. The self-regulating double-barrel mechanism provides an exceptional power reserve of six days.
De Bethune creates its yellow titanium through thermal oxidation, a controlled heating process that changes the color of the metal's surface without any coating or plating. Grade 5 titanium forms a thin oxide layer during heating, whose appearance depends on its thickness: at lower temperatures (typically around 200-300°C), the metal turns yellow or amber, while higher temperatures produce a violet or blue hue.
DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon
The DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon, due for release in 2025, will be De Bethune's first watch to feature a tourbillon in a smaller 38.7mm (rather than 42.6mm) case. The slim 8mm case houses the DB2009v5 caliber, which beats at a high frequency of 10 times per second and houses De Bethune's renowned lightweight titanium tourbillon, which rotates twice per minute (usually once).
The twin mainspring barrels provide an impressive five days of power reserve, and a generous expanse of meticulously machined blue titanium can be seen through the sapphire exhibition caseback.
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